Is Refinancing Worth It? The Real Break-Even Analysis
A step-by-step break-even calculation for a mortgage refinance — what to include, what to ignore, and when the numbers actually work.
The break-even formula
The break-even point on a refinance is where cumulative monthly savings equal the closing costs of the new loan:
[ \text{Break-even months} = \frac{\text{Closing costs}}{\text{Monthly payment reduction}} ]
If it takes longer than you plan to stay in the home, refinancing loses money.
Worked example
Original loan: 2,388/month P&I.
Refinance offer: 5.75% on a new 30-year fixed, $6,000 closing costs.
- New payment: ~$2,041/month
- Monthly savings: $347
- Break-even: 347 = ~17.3 months
Anything past month 18, you're in the black. Plan to move in 12 months? Skip it.
What the naive formula misses
Break-even months are the headline, but three factors change the real answer:
- You reset the amortization clock. Refinancing a 27-year-old loan into a fresh 30-year adds 3 years of payments. The refinance calculator shows total lifetime interest, not just monthly.
- Cash-out increases the balance. If you pull equity out, part of your "savings" is just borrowing again.
- PMI may change. If your equity crossed 20% since origination, refinancing can drop PMI entirely — a bigger win than the rate cut.
Rule-of-thumb triggers
Refinancing usually pays off when:
- Rate drops by at least 0.75% and you'll stay 3+ years.
- You can drop PMI by refinancing into a conventional loan.
- You want to shorten the term (e.g. 30 → 15) and can afford the higher payment.
Skip it when:
- Break-even is longer than your realistic time horizon.
- The rate cut is under 0.5% with typical 2–3% closing costs.
- You'd extend the term significantly just to cut the payment.
Run the numbers on your loan
Plug your actual balance, rate, and quoted refinance terms into the mortgage refinance calculator — it computes the break-even month and lifetime interest difference automatically.
